Winterizing your motors and boats…
Pennies now, or dollars in the spring!
By Tim Smalley
Each fall after the season is over, it’s a good idea to prepare your boats for winter storage. For some, putting the boat away consists of turning them over on the beach, locking the motor in the polebarn and forgetting about them until April 30th.
You might find that taking a few more steps in the fall, makes for a lot fewer hassles in the spring as you get ready for your first guests. If you have to stop to fix a cranky motor, or hunt for a child-sized life vest without a broken zipper, you can’t be assisting the guests with more pressing needs.
While checklists are a well-known writer’s deadline crutch, in this case, one makes perfect sense, so here we go…
1) Fill all the gas tanks and use a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil, especially if your fuel has ethanol (all regular gas in Minnesota - as many other states - has ethanol, as does some premium unless it is labeled as non-oxygenated). Leave a little room (5 percent) in the tank for expansion. Ethanol has an affinity for water and can cause other problems, especially in older motors. A stabilizer helps deal with moisture condensation problems and keeps the gas fresh until spring. As far as I know, nobody is predicting $20 per barrel crude oil prices next year, so you might as well fill ‘em up now.
2) Flush the cooling system. You can bet at some point last summer, at least one of your guests ran through the shallow end of the lake and dredged up a good percentage of the lake’s bottom sediment plus the usual snips and snails and eelpout tails through the outboard’s water pump. Using an “earmuff” style flushing attachment that hooks up to the garden hose can help make flushing a quick chore. Water pump impeller fins can break off after a few years and may need replacing too. This isn’t a job for “Mr./Ms. Fumble Fingers” so you if you aren’t sure how to do it, you might want to farm this one out to the professionals.
3) Check the plugs and fog the cylinders. While you are flushing the motor, this isn’t a bad time to take the cover off and check the plugs, plug wires, and fuel lines and run some engine cleaner through the carb. After this, run the engine with the fuel line disconnected until it stops. This pulls the stabilizer through the system. Inspect the plugs too, but before you put the plugs back in – spray some fogging-oil in each cylinder to help prevent the cylinder walls from rusting. Empty and clean the fuel-filter bowl as well.
4) Change the gearcase lube on the lower units. Even on new motors, a little water can sneak by the propshaft seal. It then gets into the lower unit and can corrode the gears. And if it’s a lot of water, might cause freeze damage. If the old gear lube oil looks really milky, it’s also a telltale sign of immanent seal failure. More than a few drops of liquid water (leaky shaft seal), a large amount of metal filings or gear teeth (grinding gears) in the oil means a trip into town to the shop. Unfortunately, there is no Gear-toothfairy, so it will COST money to repair. Changing gearcase lube can be messy, since you fill it from the lower drain hole. Take out both upper and lower drain screws, let the old stuff drain out in a coffee can (and dispose of it properly). Then force the lube into the bottom hole until it runs out the top one. This is a little easier if you use one of the inexpensive lower unit gearcase lube pumps that you can find at a well-stocked marine dealer. Have some kitty litter around to soak up any spills on the garage floor. Please remove the cat first.
5) Check for any worn or loose parts. This includes the steering, which can loosen up over the summer, and also the trim tab on the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate just above the prop. The trim tab, in combination with the steering friction adjuster (sometimes a screw, sometimes a lever) helps fight a kind of boating accident we are seeing more of every year. Folks let go of the steering tiller or wheel while the boat is moving and it is so loose that the boat cuts a hard right due to “propeller walk” and ejects the operator from the boat. The boat continues around in a circle, running down the person in the water. Thus the name “Circle of Death accident”. I’ve seen photos of the results. I wish I hadn’t looked…
6) Check the prop for any bad dings. Repair or replace as necessary. You can hammer out minor dings with a rawhide mallet. Bigger ones need professional help. Dents and nicks throw off the prop’s balance, which can eventually wear out seals and gears. Also check for fishing line around the prop shaft. Remove it to prevent damage to the shaft and seals.
7) Grease any zerk fittings that need it, and finally, store the motor standing up – no, not you, the motor should be standing all winter. It doesn’t hurt to put a breathable (not plastic) dust (or pigeon fallout) cover on them too.
8) Non-motor items to look at…Check your boat oars for serious cracks and replace as necessary. Check aluminum boat hulls for missing rivets, torn seams, obvious leaks, loose seats, torn up transoms, etc.
9) Check your boat cushions and life vests, and make sure they aren’t torn or otherwise damaged. Also check buckles, zippers and snaps to be sure they are in working order. If they’re damaged, torn or seriously worn, they have to be discarded. You can’t sit down at the Singer and stitch old flower-power appliqués over them – state and federal laws forbid patched or repaired PFDs. Most new life jackets are made from closed-cell foam rubber, but if you still have a few of the old orange “Mae West” kapok vests around, squeeze them to make sure they aren’t hardened from water leaks. Note - The kids REALLY love to wear these, especially if they are dirty, greasy and smell like the inside of a minnow bucket. They’ll remember you from Dad making them wear “those ugly orange life preservers”. Do yourself a favor, get some of the new attractive vest-style PFDs. They are more comfortable and people are more likely to wear them, which is the whole point of life vests. Nothing will spoil a happy summer like someone drowning from YOUR boat.
10) Check your registration stickers for expiration (they turn back into pumpkins on Dec 31 of the year indicated) and renew if necessary. These are the colored square decals with the last two digits of the year of expiration on them that stick on each side of the bow of the boat, sternward from the numbers. Many boat owners get this wrong. They tend to want to stick it next to the MN on both sides. Nope! It goes before the MN on the starboard (right) side of the boat and follows the last two letters on the port (left) side of the boat. And don’t line them up fighter ace-style, one after the next. The law requires that only the current year be displayed on the boat.
That’s it! Lock your equipment away and hope for a short winter.